Girling Booster Rebuild Question

[66Tiger289]

Ok all you booster rebuilt expert.
How have you dealt with a very very stuck control piston plug?
Drill it out ? Where to get a replacement?
Tap a 10-24 hole in the center and try to pull out?

Give me some guidance please

Steve

 

[0neoffive]

Ok all you booster rebuilt expert.
How have you dealt with a very very stuck control piston plug?
Drill it out ? Where to get a replacement?
Tap a 10-24 hole in the center and try to pull out?

Give me some guidance please

Steve

Start with squirting 'Deep Creep' foam into the forward brakeline hole. This will soak the backside of the plug. After a few hours or adult beverages tap the plug inward and do the same soaking for a few more hours. I heated the end of a hardened Philips driver and bent the very end so as to able to pry the control; valve forward in place which will force (sometimes) the plug along. Some back & forth action with more creep foam, etc. Works most of the time. OR , drill dead center just deep enough ti get a good coarse tap in the aluminum. Torch heat will only fuse the plug seal and make things worse.

 

[steven]

When we were doing the same on a VH44 I tried drilling the piston from the rear port and pulling with plenty of WD44 but no success. Took itto a friend, ex aircraft engineer, unit in vise, found a coupler to fit the inlet port then fired up his compressor, no success. Then he dismantled his large hydralic press and we connected the ram to the port. 2 compresses of the hydralic ram and we had bleed from the front. 2 more and the piston came out. Way past a home fix. Had it reconditioned by a old school brake place now working fine.

 

[66Tiger289]

Start with squirting 'Deep Creep' foam into the forward brakeline hole. This will soak the backside of the plug. After a few hours or adult beverages tap the plug inward and do the same soaking for a few more hours. I heated the end of a hardened Philips driver and bent the very end so as to able to pry the control; valve forward in place which will force (sometimes) the plug along. Some back & forth action with more creep foam, etc. Works most of the time. OR , drill dead center just deep enough ti get a good coarse tap in the aluminum. Torch heat will only fuse the plug seal and make things worse.

Update:
So did all of the oneoffive recommendations but after taping the plug inward its is now further into the bore and not coming back out. Anymore guidance up to this point, or should I just drill out the plug and look for a replacement?

 

[65beam]

Install the .700 brake master used on series 1 & 2 Alpines, ditch the booster and you have good brakes. The 700 master can be bought new from Pegasus Racing.

 

[Bryan]

you are suppose to drill 3/4 thru plug and use a bottom tap- use large area washers and pry equally on at the washers to pull-

 

[Warren]

There's a you tube video on the brake booster rebuild showing what Bryan is talking about. Have good coffee as it's a slow long video.

 

[0neoffive]

Update:
So did all of the oneoffive recommendations but after taping the plug inward its is now further into the bore and not coming back out. Anymore guidance up to this point, or should I just drill out the plug and look for a replacement?

Well, before you break out the big guns, just send me the valve body and I'll rescue it for Ya. I've created some special tools over the decades to avoid frustration and product loss. Just sayin'

 

[66Tiger289]

Second Update:
Tried this
1. drill a hole in about center of the plug
2. Tapped the hole 10-24
3. Threaded a 10-24 pilot from my rivet-nut tool using a spacer (not shown) and apply handle pressure
Not Budging at all.....

 

[0neoffive]

Patience . . . . .

 

[Warren]

Patience . . . . .

It's on the same aisle as elbow grease...

 

[DD (CA)]

It's on the same aisle as elbow grease...

And the same shelf where gurus keep their spares. Of everything. "Yeah, i can wait on that one" (sips tea and moves to next project).

 

[larryall]

I finished installing Ricks rebuild kit for a 5 inch Girling. The servo was filling out with brake fluid that was going out the tailpipe.
When I took apart the servo I did not see any issues with pitting or scratches. Now when I drive the car the front discs lock up. I turn off engine and wait a minute or two and then they release. The back drums dont lock up. Does anyone have a suggestion for solution to this problem?
Thanks in advance.

 

[at the beach]

I had the stuck plug problem when rebuilding the servo from AF-4. I gave up and paid Smitty a call.

Like Randy, Smitty has also perfected several job specific tools to help.
He made an adapter that hooks to his shop air to pressure it out. Actually he runs it through an air gun to give controlled air bursts to pressure it out.
Basically we did the back and forth with lube as Randy suggested, but when we started maybe each was probably less than 1/64" to begin with. Lube, bang it in a little, more lube, then a shot of air to pressure it out a teeny bit. Repeat at least a dozen times. (two dozen?) (I can't remember precisely but it was a lot.)

As Randy said, patience.

Once the piston started to stick out above the housing Smitty has a tool that grabs it around the diameter.
When it finally pops the piston is controlled and stuff doesn't fly all over.

If I knew Randy was in such a generous mood back then, I would have invested in a small Priority Mail box and would have taken him up on his offer (and saved myself about 5 hours of driving.)

good luck,

Buck

 

[SunbeamTgr]

I have had a couple of sticking servo pistons in the past that caused brake sticking on. When I rebuild the boosters, I slaver the bore and piston with a really slippery Ford brand blue colored Teflon Grease. It seems to work great and LASTS!!

 

[michael-king]

I finished installing Ricks rebuild kit for a 5 inch Girling. The servo was filling out with brake fluid that was going out the tailpipe.
When I took apart the servo I did not see any issues with pitting or scratches. Now when I drive the car the front discs lock up. I turn off engine and wait a minute or two and then they release. The back drums dont lock up. Does anyone have a suggestion for solution to this problem?
Thanks in advance.

The servos sticking after rebuild is comon.
Using the correct grease and also can be issues with the repro diapgrams.

I need to go back and look for some old email threads... But TBH... Unless you want to do it yourself Randy 0meoffive has a good track record for rebuilt boosters that work and maybe does exchange...
More pricey than home rebuild... But he knows his stuff a d aaaume warrants his work.. If its exchange... Time saved off road v cost..

 

[hottigr]

I've rebuilt 3 servos in 52 years of Tiger ownership. Never had that problem, thankfully. The rebuilds have so many years in between them I have to start over, manual in hand, each time. Then I have to find this thing, rattling around in the bottom of the toolbox:

 

[0neoffive]

I finished installing Ricks rebuild kit for a 5 inch Girling. The servo was filling out with brake fluid that was going out the tailpipe.
When I took apart the servo I did not see any issues with pitting or scratches. Now when I drive the car the front discs lock up. I turn off engine and wait a minute or two and then they release. The back drums dont lock up. Does anyone have a suggestion for solution to this problem?
Thanks in advance.

Generally, I find that the lower portion of the main vacuum can has scarred and will "hook" the leather seal just shy of full release. Much sanding and polishing inside the main can helps a great deal. Using too long a rubber filler that sits behind the vacuum seal also will force it out too far and increase friction. snip it shy and leave a gap. There are many other subtle things I do during deep clean & test but there's only so much space here . Good luck & be patient.

 

[larryall]

Generally, I find that the lower portion of the main vacuum can has scarred and will "hook" the leather seal just shy of full release. Much sanding and polishing inside the main can helps a great deal. Using too long a rubber filler that sits behind the vacuum seal also will force it out too far and increase friction. snip it shy and leave a gap. There are many other subtle things I do during deep clean & test but there's only so much space here . Good luck & be patient.

Thanks very much Oneoffive.The rubber ends just came together perfectly and I thought that was normal. I will remove can lid and get piston out and snip that rubber just a skotch. I will also check for any scarring at bottom of can although when I had it apart I was surprised how smooth and clean it was except for all of the brake fluid that was in it.

 

[0neoffive]

Thanks very much Oneoffive.The rubber ends just came together perfectly and I thought that was normal. I will remove can lid and get piston out and snip that rubber just a skotch. I will also check for any scarring at bottom of can although when I had it apart I was surprised how smooth and clean it was except for all of the brake fluid that was in it.

It's a good idea to coat the inside of the can and the leather seal with black moly grease. I use a Valvoline product with "Ford Lincoln Mercury" printed on the tube. When all else fails, send it in for rescue.