I have a 347 Stroker on the Dyno now for my 66MK1A (not the Club Headers I have for it pictured). Anticipating 400hp when tweaked. What install issues/ modifications should I anticipate? Any "snakes in the grass" to watch out for? Appreciate any advice!
I had numerous problems with my 347 project but whether they are applicable to your build I cannot really say.
My Weiand Stealth intake sits the carb more rearward than the stock intake or the f4B. Result is that holley carb with center-hung float secondary bowl interfered with the scuttle.
Also that intake is taller than the f4b which meant I could only get a 1.5 inch filter element under the stock LAT hood. Not really enough air flow at higher rpm to feed 347. You may need to put a big scoop on the hood to properly feed your motor, depending on what is your setup. That particular intake cannot be machined to lower the carb fitment pad, runners too high.
For clearance purposes, I kept the stock remote filter in conjunction with my CAT headers (version just preceding current one available). Sealing not a problem if you use high temp O rings at the filter end, BTW.
I kept the generator for more of a stock look, but the holes in the mounting bracket for it did not match the holes in my Windsor Jr. heads. Made adapter plate that also gave me better belt alignment with crank and water pump pulleys so something good came of that. Similar problem on the remote filter bracket fitment to the end of the drivers side head.
With my 6 bolt block, I went with a larger clutch and HIPO bell housing. Needed to grind just a bit on bell housing to get clutch slave to fit. Used SS slave cylinder brack for 6 bolt blocks. Be sure to install the slave cylinder before installing the motor if going the same route. Real B***h to do it after motor and trans in the car like I did.
Used a high torque gear reduction starter, which worked well with the headers. Hate to try and use a stock starter. Be sure and install the starter on the motor before motor goes in car.
I put a Canton girdle on the main bearing caps along with a windage tray/screen that bolts to it. The windage screen interfered with the oil pick up tube and I had to fiddle to make that work. Be sure the pickup is the correct distance from the bottom of your pan.
The girdle, tray or something interfered with the stock dip stick going all the way in the stock tube attached to the stock timing cover. Found and made fit a stainless steel stick of same length and markings as stock one and modified the handle. The more flexible shaft slips by whatever is the obstruction. No added noises with stick installed and motor running!
BTW getting the engine in without the dip stick tube installed in the timing cover makes the engine install a lot easier.
There likely are other things that I have repressed. But at the end of the day the car is very very fast!
Hope some of that helps.
Gene
PS: Just remembered all the issues getting the Centerforce clutch to properly bolt to the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. Hole patterns did not match up. Had to have top of holes in flywheel slightly countersunk and used ARP thick washers under 3/8 (Chevy) ARP flywheel bolts. Sigh...
Also, hopefully you are using the stock 260 crank pulley and modified water pump pulley hub placement. Regular ford crank sticks out too far and will not clear the cross member...