It's like the old saying "measure twice". In this case even after being cleaned by the dipper the cars were cleaned again which makes sure that everything on the exposed surface is spotless. You treat the unseen locations to protect them. There were several cars at the recent TE/AE United that came out of this shop in Dayton over the years and they're still looking good so his way must work.
To dip or to dip?
- Thread starter Tiger67
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ok thanks for clarifying.
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AshUK you asked a good question, in my case they could (or did) not get it all the 'dip' gunk out. Plus mine slow oozed out over time (months) like a syrup which required multiple cleanups and it definaely eats thru paint/primer/contact, even POR's. Luckly the gunk ooze was only on inside and underneath areas primarialy, the lower rockers seam quick oozing after about a week or two. Thought I would add dip $ spent was around $1800 20 years ago, media blasting in 2019 around $2200 (stripped shells, doors, hood, trunk, hardtopboth top and underside of shell). My sugestion would be to find a dip solution that can both wash and then fully dunk/soak shell in a cleaning vat that would neutralize inside and out (mine was just washed off) - I don't think a hose wash is good enough. Based on my experience I would blast - cleanup is more definable (especially if you can rotate shell on a rotissere) and overall was not that bad using a good air compressor (with clean/dry filtered air) and one of those long air blower/gun nozzels worked great. Individual parts like a convetible frame when dipped willl fill up the tubs inside with gunk which is a mess BTW (been there, done that). Dipping is less $ and quicker it seems than blasting for small metail parts like suspension stuff for example, when I get them back I usually have to deal with light surface rust because these are dipped/rinsed in large baskets so drying quality/time afterwords is iff but the surface rust is easy to hand wirebrush off and then prime/paint, Also want to add that if you are going to powder coat parts blasting is prefered over dipping big time by my powder coating guy
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No matter how you approach it, lotsa work has to happen. We prefer hard blast while keeping gentle on any broad surface; the DA remedies those areas. Depending on how much cutting and welding needs are discovered, bracing requirements are paramount. Then there are constant vacuum & sweeping as the car is rotated during process. Eventually ( honestly) the grit goes away. Ya gotta have patience along with talents.
Austin Healer
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With all of the seam sealer crap removed it's a straight shot, front to rear. In any event, original rockers and fenders have drain holes. The only thing I had an issue with was the strut rods from the top hats to the firewall. I had to drill a hole (5/16) in each end to get them properly neutralized and washed out. The place I took my car had three vats with different solutions and they'd submerge the car completely in all of them. They were also each electrically charged.
Doug also removed this section of the rear fender wells area in order to clean and treat the area. As you can see he makes a panel to replace it. There's lots of junk / rust if the car is from the middle of the country.
What about drilling holes big enough for access, then plugging the holes with rubber plugs? This would allow room to use a vacuum or compressed air, and then coat the inside with POR 15 or the equivalent. You would not lose any significant structural rigidity if done judiciously.
Austin Healer
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there are products that can be injectd into voids of the body. one such product is Waxoyl...
If you're going to this extreme on one of my wife's cars, why not open up the area? This shop started working on Sunbeams back in the 60's so he does what he feels is best for down the road. Doug also installs extra bracing for using jack stands behind the front wheels.
But Doug is retired, unless you are referring to another restorer. This discussion started with the difficulty of getting a car dipped, costs/delays/distance and how hard it is to get dipping substances out of the many crevices on the car. Was looking for alternatives that might be more approachable/quicker/cheaper. Of course dipping cleans up all of the nooks and crannies, but is this a case of the perfect being the enemy of the good?
David,
This is my green car. These photos are from about 10 years ago and show the extent that he went to when doing a restoration. He would do the same things if he were still doing body work. Doug had Jeans blue car blasted back in 1994 and media filtered out of areas for a few years. It's the car we had at Bowling Green in September. If we decide to restore the third Harrington I'll have it dipped. Dipping seems to be the preferred process in this area because of the waiting line to get a body dipped. I've talked with the folks that do dry ice blasting and they have enough industrial cleaning jobs that they have no interest in doing automotive work.
This is my green car. These photos are from about 10 years ago and show the extent that he went to when doing a restoration. He would do the same things if he were still doing body work. Doug had Jeans blue car blasted back in 1994 and media filtered out of areas for a few years. It's the car we had at Bowling Green in September. If we decide to restore the third Harrington I'll have it dipped. Dipping seems to be the preferred process in this area because of the waiting line to get a body dipped. I've talked with the folks that do dry ice blasting and they have enough industrial cleaning jobs that they have no interest in doing automotive work.