Vacuum advance tube cannisters. Old Ford blue

Too Tech

Bronze forum user
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This post is intended to address the discussion of whether distributor vacuum advance should be used......
To optimize efficiency, a Streetcar must run vacuum advance. Optimal full cylinder pressure for Max torque is about 12 degrees after top dead center. Under Full Throttle and over about 2500 rpm the cylinders are full of fuel and air and the burning occurs quickly and we need about 36 degrees before top dead center to have maximum cylinder pressure at 12 degrees after top dead center. When cruising we are not filling the cylinder with fuel and air so the burning occurs much slower. So to maintain our max cylinder pressure at 12 degrees after top dead center we must ignite the mixture even earlier. Typically 12 to 20 degrees of vacuum advance facilitates this goal.
The allowed amount of vacuum advance is dictated by the initial timing setting. (A minimal initial timing setting and a slow, non performance mechanical advance curve allows 20 deg of vacuum advance. A more advance initial timing setting with fast, performance advance curve will reduce the allowed amount of vacuum advance to about 12-15deg to avoid misfiring at and around idle.
(NOTE: For best off-idle performance and response, initial timing must be maximized. 16 ish deg initial timing is about right. Then mechanical advance must be adjusted (limited) to 20 Engine deg to attain 36 ish deg total engine advance.) BUT: When running this much initial mechanical advance, Vacuum advance must be limited at idle and off idle to avoid erratic/rough idle (mis-firing due to early spark ignition at low speed).
The only real option is whether to use full vacuum at idle or not. Using full vacuum at idle allows the engine to have a smaller carburetor opening and use less fuel and will actually run cooler at idle and cruising speeds. Using ported vacuum eliminates the additional cooling at idle, but still allows for cooler engine temps while cruising.
This applies to all of our older School engines not just Ford.
 
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Warren

Gold forum user
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Part of the problem is the proper vaccum advance canister is N.L.A.
Then there's keeping the MK2 in as close to as found as possible. Great response Rick.
 

theo_s

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
149
I think that what you really want to know about your distributor is how many degrees of centrifugal advance it has. You need to remove the points plate and that lets you see the mechanism. The advance you (should) get is stamped into the cam. Usually there are two different options and you select which one you get by putting the drive pin or tang into that side of the advance cam.

If it's "Blueprinted by Shelby" then I'd expect to find maybe some welding and grinding was done on the cam to ensure that it actually had the curve (and limits) that it was supposed to have. Unless it's just a sticker 'cause stickers make it go faster.

The default setup for many distributors is that you have a LOT of mechanical advance, and pretty strong springs. That means you need to have the initial timing set pretty conservatively to avoid having too much advance once the centrifugal kicks in, and then it takes forever to actually hit the advance limit because of the strong springs. If you have a cam and some other mods, then you might want a lighter spring, and less mechanical advance. That lets you run more timing at idle, and the advance is fully in by about 2500 RPM. But talk to your engine guy to be sure.
 
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