The Tiger found me...
- Thread starter Vinreeb
- Start date
Thanks for advice
Oh... would be so nice to be able to take it to Tiger 50th...
but my Goal ist the 30.03.2015... the fiftith anniversairy of the Car itself.
@oneoffive:
I dont want to cut anything as long as the drivetrain is in it, I just would like to use the rotissery to lift it up, because i have built in Farm Jacks.
Actually i would:
1. Lift up horizontaly with the rotisserie
2. Put stands under the front X-frame ends
3. Take away the front end of the rotisserie to be able to acces with a engine crane.
4. Pull everything off of the underside and then again replace the front end of the Barbeque and pull it up highe to turn it over.
Can I do that or is it still risky?
Oh... would be so nice to be able to take it to Tiger 50th...
but my Goal ist the 30.03.2015... the fiftith anniversairy of the Car itself.
@oneoffive:
I dont want to cut anything as long as the drivetrain is in it, I just would like to use the rotissery to lift it up, because i have built in Farm Jacks.
Actually i would:
1. Lift up horizontaly with the rotisserie
2. Put stands under the front X-frame ends
3. Take away the front end of the rotisserie to be able to acces with a engine crane.
4. Pull everything off of the underside and then again replace the front end of the Barbeque and pull it up highe to turn it over.
Can I do that or is it still risky?
Up in the air
The last days ive spent my time sorting out some fixture problems on the Rotisserie brackets. I even had to work a little on the ground under the car to be able to place the front support of the rotisserie.
Yesterday everything was ready to try and lift the little kitten by its neck...
Carfully watching for movements of the tub. The door opening saged about 1mm only and went back to normal as the wheels touched ground again, so i guess it is ok to lift it this way up and place it on axle-stands.
I have used the opportunity to take some pictures of the front brackets of the leaf springs. both are cracked but have not moved too far i guess.
The metal looks worse on the pics than it aktually is, most of the stuff that look like rust chips are just bits of loose undercoating and dirt
What i can see now are the X-frame is to be replaces where the exhaust passes at the front and at least on the passenger side in the back.
The floors look pretty good so far, but the real horror are the sills....
This is the passenger side, the driver doesnt look better...
so what shall i do next?
Guess i will bild some axle stands to place the car on it so it doesnt sag when i take the engine out.
The last days ive spent my time sorting out some fixture problems on the Rotisserie brackets. I even had to work a little on the ground under the car to be able to place the front support of the rotisserie.
Yesterday everything was ready to try and lift the little kitten by its neck...
Carfully watching for movements of the tub. The door opening saged about 1mm only and went back to normal as the wheels touched ground again, so i guess it is ok to lift it this way up and place it on axle-stands.
I have used the opportunity to take some pictures of the front brackets of the leaf springs. both are cracked but have not moved too far i guess.
The metal looks worse on the pics than it aktually is, most of the stuff that look like rust chips are just bits of loose undercoating and dirt
What i can see now are the X-frame is to be replaces where the exhaust passes at the front and at least on the passenger side in the back.
The floors look pretty good so far, but the real horror are the sills....
This is the passenger side, the driver doesnt look better...
so what shall i do next?
Guess i will bild some axle stands to place the car on it so it doesnt sag when i take the engine out.
Stripped
Time to post what happened the last weeks.
Removed both axles and the complete drivetrain without big issues.
Had to scrape off about 4kg of backed on oil mud from the diff.
I will open it and look if there even is some oil left inside, what I dont believe.
I removed engine and tranny by lowering the car on the rotisserie untill the stuff was lying on a dolly.
I unscrewed everything but the last two screws on the motor mount bevore lowering, so I just had to loosen the two screws, pull the tranny out of the frame and lift off the tub.
I must say that now I am very pleased with how the Rotisserie works, you just have to pay close attention to these damned Jacks while lowering...
When i had the engine out, i noticed someone had taken off the upper screws from the Bellhousing... why would someone do that?? so the engine was only hold to the tranny by 3 bolts...
Now i will wait for the replacement panels and till they come, will dissasemble the axle stuff.
I will post some more pictures of the engine bay and hidden stuff these days, as i want to clean everything bevore taking pictures.
Regards,
Thibaut
Time to post what happened the last weeks.
Removed both axles and the complete drivetrain without big issues.
Had to scrape off about 4kg of backed on oil mud from the diff.
I will open it and look if there even is some oil left inside, what I dont believe.
I removed engine and tranny by lowering the car on the rotisserie untill the stuff was lying on a dolly.
I unscrewed everything but the last two screws on the motor mount bevore lowering, so I just had to loosen the two screws, pull the tranny out of the frame and lift off the tub.
I must say that now I am very pleased with how the Rotisserie works, you just have to pay close attention to these damned Jacks while lowering...
When i had the engine out, i noticed someone had taken off the upper screws from the Bellhousing... why would someone do that?? so the engine was only hold to the tranny by 3 bolts...
Now i will wait for the replacement panels and till they come, will dissasemble the axle stuff.
I will post some more pictures of the engine bay and hidden stuff these days, as i want to clean everything bevore taking pictures.
Regards,
Thibaut
worries
right now i´m a little conserned about the frame rails in the engine bay, as in the german forum some guys mentioned they could have been bend in a previous accident.
The doubt was caused by this picture:
Here it looks like the frame throws a wave between the Crossmember and the Engine mounts.
I have to say that the light in this picture is not favorable. When i looked at the frame with the nacked eye it looked far less weavy. The frame bends are exactly the same on both sides of the car and the other sides of the frame are absloutely staight in my opinion.
Here some aditional pictures i have taken yesterday:
could someone please post pictures of the shown areas how the should look like when they are ok? I would really apreciate that, as i have no idea how they should look like.
Regards,
Thibaut
right now i´m a little conserned about the frame rails in the engine bay, as in the german forum some guys mentioned they could have been bend in a previous accident.
The doubt was caused by this picture:
Here it looks like the frame throws a wave between the Crossmember and the Engine mounts.
I have to say that the light in this picture is not favorable. When i looked at the frame with the nacked eye it looked far less weavy. The frame bends are exactly the same on both sides of the car and the other sides of the frame are absloutely staight in my opinion.
Here some aditional pictures i have taken yesterday:
could someone please post pictures of the shown areas how the should look like when they are ok? I would really apreciate that, as i have no idea how they should look like.
Regards,
Thibaut
Moondoggie
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 569
Here is a picture of my car....We had to replace part of the frame member and inner fender wheel. This should give a good idea. You can use Alpine parts from a donor car. Looks like you are going to need a ton of parts !!!
Moondoggie
Moondoggie
cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
- Messages
- 608
I think you are okay.
As Oneoffive posted in a thread about header fitment, Rootes modified the Alpine frame rails to give exhaust manifold clearance. On the Alpine the cross section profile is pretty consistent in this area. Rootes (or Jensen?) cut the frame rails in this area, bashed them outward and then rewelded.
Unfortunately, I just got my motor back in a couple of weeks ago so cannot give you really good pics of my car to confirm. I have taken a few anyway in the hope they may give you a sense of how mine look. The necessary camera angle is obviously not very helpful.
Keep up the good work!
Gene
PS: I see Moondoggie responded with a pic while I was working on my response. He gives a much better pic. I will leave my response up as additional confirmation of what he is showing.
As Oneoffive posted in a thread about header fitment, Rootes modified the Alpine frame rails to give exhaust manifold clearance. On the Alpine the cross section profile is pretty consistent in this area. Rootes (or Jensen?) cut the frame rails in this area, bashed them outward and then rewelded.
Unfortunately, I just got my motor back in a couple of weeks ago so cannot give you really good pics of my car to confirm. I have taken a few anyway in the hope they may give you a sense of how mine look. The necessary camera angle is obviously not very helpful.
Keep up the good work!
Gene
PS: I see Moondoggie responded with a pic while I was working on my response. He gives a much better pic. I will leave my response up as additional confirmation of what he is showing.
Hi guys!
thx for the pictures
Hmm Moondoggy, why do you think i will need so much parts?
to me, the frame rails look pretty much like yours... can you see something that i cant?
Today tried to measure the frame the quick&dirty way with a pull-push rule, so far both sides seem to be equal... i have to admit that i cant measure to the mm this way, and on the Rotisserie laying on the side sure flexes the whole Tub a little. But i couldnt make out a difference between sides and when i measured diagonally using the front frame ends and rear leaf spring hinges as reference-points.
For the sheet metal... the parts i have ordered yet are more expensive than the whole car was... but i need to buy the best fit i cen find, because i have no experience in tin bashing...
Gene, thank you a lot for your pictures too, they show much detail i can refer to as the contour of the bend is looking exactly like my rails.
unfortunately i havent mad pictures in this state of dissasembly i just noticed... will put the motor mounts back in, so i have a reference for the bends on the pictures.
Regards and good night from germany
Thibaut
thx for the pictures
Hmm Moondoggy, why do you think i will need so much parts?
to me, the frame rails look pretty much like yours... can you see something that i cant?
Today tried to measure the frame the quick&dirty way with a pull-push rule, so far both sides seem to be equal... i have to admit that i cant measure to the mm this way, and on the Rotisserie laying on the side sure flexes the whole Tub a little. But i couldnt make out a difference between sides and when i measured diagonally using the front frame ends and rear leaf spring hinges as reference-points.
For the sheet metal... the parts i have ordered yet are more expensive than the whole car was... but i need to buy the best fit i cen find, because i have no experience in tin bashing...
Gene, thank you a lot for your pictures too, they show much detail i can refer to as the contour of the bend is looking exactly like my rails.
unfortunately i havent mad pictures in this state of dissasembly i just noticed... will put the motor mounts back in, so i have a reference for the bends on the pictures.
Regards and good night from germany
Thibaut
- Messages
- 4,323
Was your inner guard rippled? how big a hit had the car sustained? Was that rail at a significantly different angle to the other side?
Moondoggie
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 569
Michael.....The rails were not bent but the right side was short by 3/4" due to some yahoo trying to make a repair cheap and using a bunch of washers to align the bumper. The inner fender well had some holes that the same yahoo repaired by using masking tape and bondo. Dan Pardini is a perfectionist
and the car was brought back to dead bang square with no bondo anywhere...was not cheap the body work was more than what most Tiger sell for these days.....
Moondoggie
- Messages
- 2,967
Acknowledgement
Ditto on the body banging costs; the weld/fab on little #000004 was an attention getter, but the rust is gone and the dimensions are within spec. Now it waits for a turn in the prep line to be smoothed.
Ditto on the body banging costs; the weld/fab on little #000004 was an attention getter, but the rust is gone and the dimensions are within spec. Now it waits for a turn in the prep line to be smoothed.
Umm... hope my restauration will not make me a poor man in the end...
Dont really want a perfect showcar, want to have something i can drive when i want to... german autobahn -> chasing some Golfs or something like that
Like everything in life, it all depends on funding... I try to make the thing as good as i can afford and do it, i dont think i have the capability of building a real show winner.
This weekend i will try and dissasemble the front axle... are there any things i have to look at when pulling things apart?
regards,
Thibaut
Dont really want a perfect showcar, want to have something i can drive when i want to... german autobahn -> chasing some Golfs or something like that
Like everything in life, it all depends on funding... I try to make the thing as good as i can afford and do it, i dont think i have the capability of building a real show winner.
This weekend i will try and dissasemble the front axle... are there any things i have to look at when pulling things apart?
regards,
Thibaut
- Messages
- 2,967
Front Crossmembers
The front crossmembers slowly collapse inward over the decades, which, can make front end alignment impossible as the shock towers move toward each other. Once you have the pieces out and apart, we all can chime in with correct dimensions and "tech hint" threads for your information. Be careful of the lower 3/8" X 24 tpi bolts that secure the bottom "A" arm fulcrums. They rust in and will break off on you. They can be soaked with penetrants thru the access holes. Be patient with them. A little heat may help.
The front crossmembers slowly collapse inward over the decades, which, can make front end alignment impossible as the shock towers move toward each other. Once you have the pieces out and apart, we all can chime in with correct dimensions and "tech hint" threads for your information. Be careful of the lower 3/8" X 24 tpi bolts that secure the bottom "A" arm fulcrums. They rust in and will break off on you. They can be soaked with penetrants thru the access holes. Be patient with them. A little heat may help.
cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
- Messages
- 608
In addition to ultimately reinforcing the crossmember, I presume part of the reason for the disassembly is in preparation for replacing bushings and other parts that wear out/deteriorate over time. Be sure and check with us before trying to remove the fulcrum pins, bushings and upper ball joints from the A-Arms.
Gene
Gene
Tiger tamer
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 318
Safety. I hope you have a Churchall tool to remove the front springs. I made my own as on this link http://sunbeamtiger.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1088&highlight=churchall+tool when assembling my front end.
I would also tie the top of the spring to the top A arm as well so if something goes wrong it can't fly.
bad news Day...
Today was really a bad news day...
first i have taken off the Bellhousing, which was hold by only 2!!! Screws to the Block. While doing that i noticed that both rear freeze plugs where gone... Hope the engine survived
Guess i will have to completely take it apart and rebuild it to be shure...
Frustrated from the engine I continued stripping the undercoating from the Frame and pretty soon found this:
I guess, the inner sill should be attached to the Floor... well its not and this is the fact for the full length of the panel. Same on the driver side.
Afte that, i tried to remove the steering rack from the axle... i managed to take off the nuts from the trak rod ends, but couldnt get them off with gentle hammer blows...
So i left them alone for today and closed the shop. One more thing and i would just do something stupid.
Do you have an idea how i can get these off without damage ?
Regards from gemany,
Thibaut
Today was really a bad news day...
first i have taken off the Bellhousing, which was hold by only 2!!! Screws to the Block. While doing that i noticed that both rear freeze plugs where gone... Hope the engine survived
Guess i will have to completely take it apart and rebuild it to be shure...
Frustrated from the engine I continued stripping the undercoating from the Frame and pretty soon found this:
I guess, the inner sill should be attached to the Floor... well its not
and this is the fact for the full length of the panel. Same on the driver side.Afte that, i tried to remove the steering rack from the axle... i managed to take off the nuts from the trak rod ends, but couldnt get them off with gentle hammer blows...
So i left them alone for today and closed the shop. One more thing and i would just do something stupid.
Do you have an idea how i can get these off without damage ?
Regards from gemany,
Thibaut