Engine drop plan - and progress

CobraTiger

Silver forum user
Messages
53
Engine install just about done. Before the cooling system was installed I started the engine briefly to make sure the clutch and shifting worked this time. Drove the car back and forth a few feet....everything good! The clutch released about 2" off the floor, so there is room to play with the pedal ratio if I want to later; less effort if I modify the pedal/pivot point.

Installed and filled up the cooling system and had a bad leak (that was a little leak previously). It is the thermostat housing. Took it off and saw that the O-rings were very flat and not protruding much from the surface of the housing. Not easy to find the correct size rings for that. Every kit of rings I found has the small one too small a cross-section and doesn't have large enough ones for the larger one. I have some on order that should work.

Rick

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View attachment 20287
I note you are not running a brake booster though have a dual master. Could you tell me what size the master is and what car it came from an if you are happy with the stopping perfo0rmance of the car and can you lock up the front wheels that way. I am considering removing my booster in favor of a dual master. Apologies to all if I am hijacking this thread
 

Carbuilder

Gold forum user
Messages
118
From what I can see, it is a 1" master cylinder. But that won't help you since nothing on my brake system is stock. It has Wildwood calipers, different disks, and an adjustable proportioning valve. It was like that when I bought the car. So just swapping the master cylinder and deleting the brake booster.....I have no idea how the brake effort/performance would be.
 
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